About the Materials: Lambswool

About the Materials: Lambswool

The Lanam Shop is truly fortunate to have a dedicated and informed customer base. Over time, customers have asked questions, shared knowledge and experiences, and helped shape our seasonal collections with their feedback. We have found that the more we can share with our customers about the exceptional materials, remarkable craftsmanship, and pertinent characteristics of all our garments, a natural distinction between our products and others emerges. Moreover, we wish to share this knowledge with anyone merely interested in the materials and time-honored techniques used to bring to life our garments. We want to dedicate some time to our extensive selection of men’s Lambswool sweaters and women’s lambswool sweaters. 

What is Lambswool?

By definition lambswool comes from the first clipping of young lambs no older than seven months of age. The classification “lambswool” is a federally protected classification, honored by many governments and trade organizations around the world. The wool industry in New Zealand, Australia, England, Scotland, and the United States take this definition very seriously, as they are some of the largest producers of lambswool. While lambswool is a classification of a type of wool, it is not restricted to any particular variety or species of sheep; all lambs can produce lambswool, so long as the fiber is clipped prior to becoming seven-months-old. Manufacturers with dubious intentions, located in less-strict countries, often miss represent the purity of the material and might even use inferior fiber (guard hair, not inner hairs) to manufacture poor quality imitations. While cheaper, they are not true lambswool and will not possess the desirable properties of a lambswool sweater.

Lambswool is finer in consistency and slightly shorter in length than that collected from adult sheep. Placing an exact micron count on lambswool is difficult but typically it is between 21.5-15 microns. All wool is graded on a fineness scale, which is illustrated below. Lambswool cannot exceed 55mm in length.

Wool Grade	Micron Diameter (µm)
Traditional Lambswool	19.6-21.5
Fine	18.6-19.5
Super Fine	15-18.5
Ultra Fine	Less than 15

The finer the grade the softer, warmer, and more desirable it is. Moreover, a finer grade will help decrease the overall weight and bulk of a garment, while simultaneously increasing the thermal retention properties.

Where is Lambswool from?

Lambswool can come from any place where there are young lambs. Traditionally, lambswool comes from New Zealand and Australia and recently there has been a decline in English and Scottish Lambswool available on the market. American ranchers produce small amounts of lambswool but it is generally not as highly esteemed as New Zealand or Scottish lambswool. 

How does Lambswool differ from “similar” materials?

Unlike traditional wool, lambswool has a lower weight-to-warmth-index. While neither an official metric, nor scientific, the warmth-to-weight-ratio helps explain how much warmth a sweater provides relative to whatever bulk, shape, and weight the wearer has to carry. When price is added into this equation, lambswool becomes an even more attractive material. Speaking generally and without addressing the lambswool produced by each individual type of sheep, lambswool is wonderfully warm and an excellent value… just be sure it is pure and not cut with other, potentially scratchy wools.

Our lambswool is collected from young lambs living in the open fields of southern Australia. We use wool from pedigree sheep, specially bred for their extremely desirable warmth-to-weight-ratio and remarkable hand-feel. Extremely soft and warm. In part, this is not only because the wool is superior but also due to the fact we only use fiber collected from the inner coat of the lamb. Sheep, like many animals, have a coarse outer coat called guard hair and a soft downy inner coat. Our sweaters are never scratchy because we only use fibers from this inner coat. Furthermore, this inner coat is rich with natural lanolin. A soft waxy substance, lanolin keeps the coat soft and delicate.

What is the refining process for Lambswool?

Like most wools, lambswool needs to be sorted, carded, dyed, and spun. Firstly, the raw wool is carefully sorted mechanically. In this step the thicker, coarser guard hair is separated from the soft and far more desirable inner hair. The outer guard hair will not make for a comfortable sweater. Secondly, the wool is carded mechanically. The raw wool will make dozens of passes through the carding machine. With each pass, the individual wool fibers will start to separate and will become aligned. In order to make quality yarn, the individual fibers must all be lined up in the same direction. Thirdly, the wool is dyed. Raw fibers are dumped into large vats containing dyeing compounds. These can be organic or inorganic, with the finest dyes being derived from entirely natural origins. Not all natural dyes are “quality.” Often, natural dyes cannot bind to the fiber with the same strength that synthesized dyes can. Remember that inorganic and organic have a technical chemistry definition, meaning carbon molecules are not or are present (respectively). This definition differs from say, an organic farm.

What styles are available in Lambswool?

Our lambswool offerings are extensive, to say the very least. With seven men’s styles available in 36 colors, there is a combination (or two, or three…) to make anyone happy; perhaps that explains why the men's Two-Ply Lambswool V-Neck sweater is one of our best-selling Christmas gifts. The ideal price point with the exceptional craftsmanship and fiber quality you have come to expect from its cashmere counterpart, it is a handsome and practical way to say you care. Also available in a Two-Ply Lambswool Crew Neck and Two-Ply Lambswool Cardigan we proudly stock an “American” version without the traditional English saddle shoulder design; crew neck, V-neck, and cardigan. For those in desperate need of added warmth under their blazer or sport coat, our vest has proven a generational favorite. We also offer a selection of styles and colors from royal warrant holder Johnstons of Elgin. Their three-ply lambswool products include a classically cut crew neck and V-neck.

Our collection of Lambswool products for ladies is crafted for us by Johnstons of Elgin, and includes four elegant styles, suitable for daily or business occasions. Available in a suite of classic, soft colors our style selections include an essential cardigan, versatile crew neck & V-neck, and casual quarter-zip.

What are the advantages of wearing a Lambswool sweater?

The biggest advantage is the ability to cut down bulk, while maximizing warmth and comfort. Softer than most wools, a lambswool sweater will last longer because of the natural deposits of lanolin wax enveloping the fibers, completely. 

How is The Lanam Shop’s Lambswool Collection unique?

Our collection of lambswool sweaters is distinguished from others because of our range of sizes, color availability, and different style options. With sizes available from chest size 40 to 50, we can fit a large range of people with considerable ease. We also offer made-to-order size and colors up to size 60, but you have to contact Customer Service in order to determine availability, lead times, and in-stock yarns. No store compares to our availability. Moreover, with three dozen colors to select from options abound. With the option to select features like saddle shoulder, set-in shoulder, and turn-back cuffs, there is a personalized combination ready for your wardrobe. With limited-edition colors added every year, it is worth staying in the loop by signing up for emails from The Lanam Shop. You will be the first to know about exclusive colors, pre-orders, and trunk shows… don’t miss out! You can sign up by navigating to the lower right hand corner of our homepage and furnishing your information in the sign up box.

Index of Terms:

Card: a mechanical process that detangles wool, allowing it to be arranged in a single direction. This is helpful when the wool is spun.

Guard Hair: the thick outer layer of wool fiber. It acts as a waterproofing layer and protects the soft inner layer. Guard hair or the “outer coat” is not suitable for the crafting of quality sweaters.

Lamb: a baby sheep.

Lambswool: wool from the first clipping of a young lamb, no older than seven months of age. These fibers cannot be longer than 50mm. This is an internationally recognized classification.

Lanolin: a naturally occurring compound found in animal wool. It is especially abundant in the wool of young lambs. It helps maintain the softness of the inner coat and possesses waterproofing qualities.

Micron: or micrometer (µm) a unit of measurement within the System International (SI) equal to one-millionth of a meter or 1/25000 of an inch.

Warmth-to-heat-ratio: An unofficial, unscientific measurement that is widely used in the garment industry. It seeks to “quantify” (via relatively ranking) the heat retention properties of a sweater in comparison to the weight and bulk of a sweater. This is a factor that can be tested and determined in a lab setting, though we have not done that.