About the Materials: Viyella

About the Materials: Viyella

The Lanam Shop is truly fortunate to have a dedicated and informed customer base. Over time, customers have asked questions, shared knowledge and experiences, and helped shape our seasonal collections with their feedback. We have found that the more we can share with our customers about the exceptional materials, diligent crafting process, and pertinent characteristics of all our garments, a natural distinction between our products and others emerges. Moreover, we wish to share this knowledge with those merely interested in the materials and time-honored techniques used to bring to life our garments. We want to dedicate some time to men’s Viyella offerings, which includes shirts and robes (in the traditional English dressing gown style).

What is Viyella?

A lovely material for fall, winter, or just a cool day, Viyella is a special blend of fine Merino Wool and Long-Staple Cotton. Originally developed in the English countryside over 150 years ago, Viyella was the World’s first patented material and the World’s first performance material. Originally, Viyella was a 55% fine Merino Wool and 45% cotton, crafted in a traditional twill weave. What was special about the material is how they blended the wool and cotton together into a single yarn; a revolutionary development in its day. Previously, blends were mostly achieved via varying warp (longitudinal fibers, held stationary under tension on a loom) and weft yarns (traversing fiber, sent across and through the warp fibers via the shuttle).

Presently, the exact blend of Viyella being manufactured has deviated from the original. Now an 80% Long-Staple Cotton and 20% fine Merino Wool blend, the fabric more closely resembles Clydella, a cheaper alternative to the mainline Viyella, composed of 81% cotton and 19% virgin wool. With the advancement of modern technology, the ability to produce the same hand-feel, warmth-to-weight-ratio, and breathability with less wool and more cotton has resulted in a cheaper, more accessible fabric.

What are the origins of Viyella?

First woven in 1893 by William Hollins & Co. of Nottingham, England. The invention of the material is credited to James and Robert Sissons, employees of the company. Originally manufacturers of hosiery, Hollins was about to make a radical change, buying a new facility and retooling their entire factory to make the new wonder material known as Viyella; “[the] first branded material in the world.” Originally sold only as piece goods (cloth by the meter) the company realized it had a golden opportunity to expand further, and produced finished clothing. In fact, the name Viyella comes from “Valley Road” which is an homage to the name of the street where the new factory tasked with producing this material was located.

The demand continued to soar. Viyella was a hit with men, women, and children (there was even an extra-soft, stain resistant version for babies called Dayella). Unlike most wool flannels and challis, Viyella did not shrink when washed. Pitched by marketers as a “guaranteed unshrinkable fine wool flannel” the sales continued to increase. During the second World War, British officers were required to purchase their own uniforms and Viyella shirts became a quick favorite with soldiers and officers. Around this time the fabric was also used in most English school uniforms.

The fabric reached new fame in the 1980s when British designers like Laura Ashley used it in their fashion-forward vintage collections. A popular choice for women’s garments it was billed as having a “daintiness” suitable for comfort & fashion and a “protectiveness” suitable for rigorous work & long-term wearability. Viyella found its way into just about every piece of clothing being sold in the United Kingdom… It was jacket lining material, essential shirting material, flannel pajama material, uniform essential, and daily-work horse performance fabric. Morphing from a branded-fabric to a full-fledged brand, the success of the Viyella appeared unstoppable… until 2009. The company entered receivership and was eventually purchased by the high street brand Austin Reed. As a result, ladies wear, home goods, and piece goods are all no longer produced. The garments (sport shirts and dressing gowns) are now made in Canada, under license.

How does Viyella differ from “similar” materials?

Simply put, there are no comparable materials to Viyella…. Except for maybe other Viyella off-shoot blends. With a wonderful softness and incredible warmth, Viyella keeps you warm, without overheating. The remarkable breathability of the fabric has made it a popular choice for any season. Originally marketed as “cool when it's hot and warm when it’s not”, the sentiment still holds true today. Free from any synthetic materials, Viyella is easy to care for, “unshrinkable”, and has a mix of warmth & softness that can only be achieved by using natural materials. Available in a host of traditional plaids, classic tartans, and timeless solids there is a Viyella to match any outfit. True English country style perfected.

What is the Viyella manufacturing process?

Viyella is a registered trademark, both as a brand and as a material but the exact manufacturing process is a bit of a secret. We do know that Viyella fibers actually contain the blend, rather than blending them via the warp and weft. This can be achieved in a few ways. Firstly, the material could all be mixed together after the wool and cotton has been carded separately and prior to being spun. Secondly, the wool and cotton fibers are carded and spun individually but are then introduced as separate sub-strands (or filaments) and then spun into one yarn. Thirdly, it could be something completely different. Originally, the third option was probably the most likely, as it was new, revolutionary technology and Victorians had a habit to over-invent things. Presently, modern technology more closely aligns with the second possibility. Currently, the composition of the fabric is long-staple cotton (80%) and Merino Wool (20%).

What styles are available in Viyella?

Viyella is mostly just used to make sport shirts, but some classic bathrobes are still available; we stock a limited amount but can special-order robes for those interested. Women's, home pieces, and yardage can no longer be purchased, unfortunately. For female customers interested in buying Viyella for themselves, we suggest sizing down two sizes, at least. We do have some trim-fit sizes available, which might not be listed online, so please call 1 (833) Lanam-33 or email Customer Service to learn more. Similarly, there are tall and portly sizes available, too.

What are the advantages of wearing Viyella?

Breathable comfort, a point we cannot reiterate enough. Viyella is a wonderful, comfortable material. It took England by storm and remained popular for over a century. No small achievement! As an all-natural performance fabric it affords the wearer the same advantages of man-made materials without the negative environmental impact. Moreover, the material lasts incredibly long and can be easily repaired, should it become damaged or start showing its age.

How is The Lanam Shop’s Viyella collection unique?

As one of the last major stockist of the Viyella product, we offer nearly the full range of Viyella patterns, sizes, and cuts. At the Holidays, we sell lots of Viyella and sweater combinations as easy, go-to gifts; so if you are looking for a different gift with a great story behind it, we routinely recommend Cashmere & Viyella or Geelong & Viyella. We do sell quite a bit of Viyella, so if you see a pattern you like, get it while it is still available. With the production schedule of the factory it is very difficult to restock and some patterns are in-season exclusives… so when they are gone, they are gone!

Index of Terms:

Carding: a mechanical process that detangles wool, allowing it to be arranged in a single direction. This is helpful when the wool is spun.

Piece Goods: fabric sold by the meter/yard, to be used in tailoring/trimming/crafting finished items; namely garments but it is a term used in the upholstery trade, too.

Warp: longitudinal fibers, held stationary under tension on a loom.

Weft: traversing fiber, sent across and through the warp fibers via the shuttle.