Anatomy of the Polo Shirt

Anatomy of the Polo Shirt

What makes up your polo shirt? What are the design elements, construction hallmarks, and expected characteristics that make a polo shirt a polo shirt? For the purpose of this conversation, we will only address our men’s Pima cotton polo shirts. Though we do offer polo-style sweaters in cashmere and camelhair they are not really ‘polo shirts’, though the general principles still apply. Let’s discuss!

Perhaps the best place to start is by asking, jersey or pique? Instantly identifiable jersey and pique refer to the two most popular stitch styles used to knit polo shirts. Jersey stitch (also called plain stitch, flat stitch, or stockinette stitch) is a flat stitch formed by linking each loop individually by drawing loops through other loops while working towards the right side of the emerging fabric, or garment. Wales and courses (front-facing and rear-facing) each have their own unique look, with the wales having a desirable sheen. Jersey is the flattest, lightest-weight, and easiest stitch to produce. Pique (or Piqué) is a style of knitting or weaving (respectively) that produces a more formal looking finished product. By adjusting the whale-stitches to be either normally spaced stitched or altered, forming a long-held stitches; the classic pique texture will take form. Pique can make for a more elegant and refined look. It is believed to originate in the French Royal Court and is most associated with European ‘white tie’ standards of dress. Jersey is much more relaxed; interestingly, the style of stitch does affect the properties of the finished garment...A topic we will discuss at a later point.

Finishing details can be noticed in any order, so we will address them as they connect to one-another.

• Placket: the placket is the part of the shirt where the buttons and buttonholes are located. Usually constructed with reinforced stitches and a double-panel design, the placket usually sports 2-3 buttons; traditionally one is always located where the collar band intersects the top of the placket, known as the collar button. Button holes can be made by either using special knits or by cutting the finished fabric and reinforcing the hole. 
• Collar Style: polos come in a few collar styles: knitted and self colors (the latter is reserved for jersey style polos only). With fashion ever evolving and creeping into more and more products, there is now the shape of the collar to contend with, too. Ribbed panels are independently knitted and are attached to the main body of the polo, one loop at a time… this can be done by hand or by a machine. There is no distinct technical advantage to hand or machine sewing, though hand-sewing usually results in only a few or no missed loops, thus preventing unwanted buckling around the collar. Flat vs. flared collars are dependent on the stitches used to create the collar panel. The panel will take a unique, curved (or straight) shape. Traditionally, collars were medium in length extending between 2 ½ to 3 ¼ inches; proportional to the overall size of the garment. The point, or modified spread (semi-spread), with a medium collar spread is most common and considered traditional; collar-spread is traditionally not to exceed 4 to 5 ½ inches, proportional to overall size. Classic polos have a “tie spread” usually one-half the width of the placket.
• Sleeves: most polo shirts are short-sleeved, but we do carry long sleeve polo shirts, too. Sleeves can have a host of finishing techniques but on most short-sleeve polos you can expect to find either plain hem or a ribbed-stitched band. Plain hem is common on jersey stitch shirts and is created when the unfinished material is folded back on itself (inwardly) and sewn shut. Simple and uncomplicated in appearance, it will not call attention to itself. Ribbed stitching is more common on pique polo shirts. More formal in appearance, the ribbing (always vertical) adds a subtle touch that finishes the product nicely. Ribbed stitches can take two forms: firstly, they can be created by folding the unfinished vertical ribbing back on itself and knitting it shut, or secondly, they can be created by intentionally knitting a multi-sided rib design, where each individual stitch has a small cavern. When finished, the two will appear the same, but the second is considered better quality and takes more time. We carry pique polos with both intentionally knitted rib-stitch polo sleeves and plain-hem sleeves. The former stands-up to washing better and is less likely to fray, with extensive use. We also offer polos with contrast stitching on the banding.
• Hem: the most popular styles are either plain hem or rib-stitch. The finishing detail can be achieved in a fashion similar to how these details would be completed on a sleeve. The hemline is an important part of the shirt and it ought to cut below the belt loops when untucked but long enough to stay tucked-in when a smart-casual look is desired.
• Side Vents: sometimes referred to as gussets, or just vents, the side vents are located where the front panel meets the back panel. Along the side seem, usually 1 to 2 inches are left unjointed at the bottom of the polo. This allows the garment to be more easily and comfortably tucked in; preventing strain and promoting maneuverability.
• Tail: referring to the extended portion of the back panel below where the front panel ends. Not all polos have tails but those that do also have side vents. The tail is useful in that it allows the back of the polo to remain tucked in even when the wearer is engaging in vigorous activity.
• Pocket: the addition of the breast pocket is a marriage of form and function. Added as a place to store sunglasses it also can be used to store a small card case. By not hanging sunglasses from the bottom of the placket or through a buttonhole, damage potentially caused by the hinges of glasses catching in the delicate pique, or finish stitching, can be avoided.

We offer a collection of Pima Cotton polo shirts for men. Our Pima Cotton material is truly the best. Sourced from coastal Peruvian cotton farms, located on high-altitude plateaus, unique microclimates produce cotton that is soft, durable, and cool to the touch.